Phil Edwards, Lower Trestles, 1962. “You’ll notice he doesn’t have a wetsuit on,"

Phil Edwards, Lower Trestles, 1962. “You’ll notice he doesn’t have a wetsuit on," says photographer Bev Morgan. "I was colder than hell. I said, ‘Phil, you’ve got to put on a wetsuit.’ He said, ‘Shut up. I’m happy.’” pic.twitter.com/LAwfTZK9ki

— The Surfer's Journal (@SurfersJournal) 4 de diciembre de 2018